Q: I'm hoping you can help us figure out what to do about these tree roots. We don't know what kind of tree it is, but our neighbor's tree is the same and the roots are showing above ground just like ours. We're concerned that the roots are running right up to the sidewalk and driveway. Thanks for any help you can give. - Heidi T.
A: Although I can't tell for certain from the photos, the tree appears to be hackberry. Roots growing near the surface, often slightly exposed, are common on some tree species, and frequently seen on maples.
A walk through a forest shows that surface roots are common in nature, making us watch our step to avoid stumbling. Because they're natural, it's best for the tree's health if we work with Mother Nature to mitigate their impact in our home yards without taking drastic measures that might damage the tree's health.
Roots partially exposed at the lawn's surface can be tripping hazards, create challenges when mowing, and are a concern with sidewalks, as you mentioned. The tree, of course, needs its root system to pump water and nutrients upward, and also for the support that prevents the tree from toppling in the wind.
Cutting tree roots is not recommended by tree researchers at universities like Cornell and New Mexico State University. Open root wounds can allow rotting organisms to enter and severing main roots can damage the tree's support system.
If surface roots aren't affecting walking or mowing, it's best to take no action. If they are causing such problems, it's usually safe to add 1 to 2 inches of topsoil between the roots to level the area. Adding a greater depth of soil can damage a tree.
Regarding the sidewalk, if a tree is located directly next to the sidewalk, most of us have seen cases where the concrete is physically lifted by the root underneath. If a tree is planted in the middle of the boulevard, it's less likely the tree roots will raise the sidewalk, although I'm sure it can happen.
In your photo it appears the root has oriented itself to run alongside the sidewalk instead of under it, hopefully taking the path of least resistance. Since sidewalks are usually installed by the city in which you're living, you might also notify them of your concern.
Q: When a reader indicated their Haralson apple was slow to bear fruit, you suggested patience, which we fully understand because it was close to nine years before our Haralred and Honeycrisp started bearing fruit. On the other hand, the Wodarz apple we planted just three years ago has a few dozen blossoms on it already. Should I let those blossoms develop, or would it be best for the tree to remove the blossoms this year in anticipation of a stronger tree in the longer term? - Dwayne P.
A: Wodarz is an interesting apple, and I know you'll enjoy it. It was developed by R.L. Wodarz, a Richland County, N.D., farmer and fruit tree breeder in the 1970s. Wodarz apple is extremely winter-hardy into Zone 3 with large, flavorful, juicy, sweet fruit that make it ideal for fresh eating or cooking.
Wodarz apple can be found at some locally owned garden centers and mail order fruit tree sources with a little searching. When there's room for several apple trees, Wodarz is well worth considering.
Regarding your question about whether to allow young trees to flower and fruit, it's usually wise to follow the methods of commercial orchards, which typically don't allow their apple trees to produce fruit during the first three years. It's always exciting to get the first samples of apples, but producing a fruit crop at a young age might not be the best for the tree's long-term development.
By removing the blossoms or tiny developing fruit, the tree's energy goes into developing a strong, well-branched structure capable of better fruiting for years to come. Depending on apple cultivar, the normal age at which apple trees bear fruit is five to seven years, with certain types taking up to nine years, as you found.
Q: Our rhubarb plant is already sending up a seed stalk in the middle. I know you're not supposed to leave it, so is it better to cut if off or pull it? - Renae M.
A: With the heat the region experienced earlier, some rhubarb plants are already producing flowering seed stalks, especially those planted in warm locations on the south side of buildings.
Seed stalks do sap energy from the rhubarb plant, and are best removed as soon as they appear. Try pulling them first, which is the preferred method. If they don't yield easily, and it feels like they'll pull part of the plant along with them, then cut as closely to the point of origin as possible.
When harvesting rhubarb stalks for use, it's better to pull than to cut. Cutting leaves a piece of stem in which rot could enter, while pulling removes the entire stalk.
To pull rhubarb, grasp a stalk firmly and pull with a slight twisting motion, and the stalk should pull away freely, base and all.